Stuff for '98 Subaru Forester (might work for other years too)

[Lex]

I would like to sell the following items together for $60 (negotiable, but that's already less than half of what I paid for it all):

- Brand new Oil Pan for '98 Subaru Forester and gasket
- 3 Purolator PureONE Oil Filters still in boxes (PL14460)
- 2 Purolator Air Filter still in boxes (A24278)

The oil filter and air filter may work for other year and model Subarus (i include the model numbers above so you can figure it out for yourself). Oil Pan might also be compatible with other years, I have no clue.

I paid $80+ for the oil pan alone (without the gasket), so even if you don't have a Subaru but are Ebay savvy you can probably double your money by reselling the parts above individually. I don't have the time and don't want to deal with listing on ebay and then packaging and shipping this stuff.

I accept fiat currency, silver, gold or you can offer me something. I will not ship this so either you have to come and pick it up yourself or if you are somewhere in the vicinity of my drive to Lebanon or Concord/Manchester I can drop it off for an extra $5.

Please private message any offers or you can ask questions here.

[PowerPenguin]

I have a '01 myself. I don't need your stuff at this time, but if you happen to have them lying around still later this year, I might (don't wait up though). Also, I have a question: I've seen some accessories advertised on dealer sites that warm the battery and the engine block, presumably to prevent non-starts in freezing weather. Have you or anyone else used these, and if so, do they do anything? They are relatively cheap and easy to install, but if they don't do anything it's not worth it...

[Pat McCotter]

If your battery is strong enough and the rest of the electrical is good you shouldn't have a problem starting a fuel-injected gasoline engine in the winter. Diesels on the other hand need to be kept warm. Plug in the block heater at night and use winterized fuel (kerosene added to the diesel in the tanks at the station) or add anti-gel to your tank. And make sure you clean the fuel pump and injectors with a good diesel injector additive.

[Lex]

I have an '06 Subaru Forester now. Have never had any issues starting the car, always starts on the first turn of the key, no matter how frozen over it is on the outside.

If your battery is not working then you should probably look into getting a new battery? I had to do that in my '98 Subaru and the difference in performance was night and day.

The battery I got was the one recommended on all the Subaru forums:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ULT%2D9020%2D164&N=700+0&autoview=sku
These Optima RedTop Starting 12 volt batteries, featuring Spiralcell technology, are designed for all of your starting needs. Vibration and jarring, whether from off-road use or major potholes, can kill a traditional battery. The tightly wound construction in Optima batteries minimizes the plate movement and subsequent damage caused by harsh conditions, extending battery life. These Optima RedTop batteries are leakproof, so they can be mounted anyplace inside a vehicle, in almost any position.

[PowerPenguin]

My battery is fine, the one it had when I bought it (I got it used this past summer) died and now I have a new one. No problems with it yet, I'm just asking what the SOP for winder auto operation is since I've lived in socal and western WA my entire life thus far and it doesn't get cold enough to merit me doing anything special. As a result, I'm entirely ignorant of what to do in conditions worse than light snow and ice. Has anyone here come from the sunbelt? If so, how hard was it for you to adjust? What mistakes did you make that I should learn from?

[Lex]

My battery is fine, the one it had when I bought it (I got it used this past summer) died and now I have a new one. No problems with it yet, I'm just asking what the SOP for winder auto operation is since I've lived in socal and western WA my entire life thus far and it doesn't get cold enough to merit me doing anything special. As a result, I'm entirely ignorant of what to do in conditions worse than light snow and ice. Has anyone here come from the sunbelt? If so, how hard was it for you to adjust? What mistakes did you make that I should learn from?

The only thing I do differently on very cold days is let the car warm up first - waiting for the thermostat to reach normal operating temperature, takes about 2 minutes tops. This isn't really necessary but it helps to improve MPG because if you start off on a very cold engine it'll be burning gas like crazy, if you let it warm up a little it'll burn much better. Sometimes I don't want to wait so I just go. I don't think it ever gets cold enough where you have to do something special, I mean just today it was way below freezing temperature and my car started fine on the first turn of the key.

[KBCraig]

Take this with a grain of salt, coming from someone sitting where it's 63 degrees at 1 a.m., but I've done a lot of reading up because I don't want to make the move unprepared. I hate surprises, especially those that can cost hundreds (or thousands) of dollars.

The general consensus among professionals is that you shouldn't warm the car any longer than it takes to brush off snow and/or scrape ice. Even 30 seconds is plenty of time if you don't have snow and ice to worry about.

Here's the rationale: people who let the car warm for 15 minutes or more (while they're sitting inside by the stove) hop into a toasty warm car and drive as if it's 70 outside. Trouble is, during that warm-up, the only thing that got warm was the engine. Other critical systems, like shock absorbers, hydraulic systems (your brakes!), your transmission and differential, and even your tires, are still at ambient temperature.

Start the car. Scrape ice and snow. Drive away gingerly, letting all components get "un-frozen" for at least 15 minutes of gentle driving.

[PowerPenguin]

So would I be right in assuming that a lot of this non start business, etc. is largely a thing of the past, and applies only to really old vehicles these days?

[Lex]

This is still for sale.

[Lex]

Still for sale. Price dropped to $20. Will take lower offers.

[Lex]

This is still available.