Car won't start

[WithoutAPaddle]

What kind of car, and which engine does it have?

Some cars have ignition modules that flake out due to moisture, or because they've cracked.

Subaru '98 Outback and I don't know beyond it being a 4-cyl.

The tough one to diagnose is an intermittent failure of "the module".  With most domestic cars, it is cheaper to "shot gun" replace it than to pay a shop to perform an overpriced "electronic diagnostics" test.

I just Googled Subaru Outback 1998 ignition module and unfortunately, the coil and module are a little more expensive that those used in most domestic cars, with coils running $80 to $100, and modules bunched around $180.

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=Subaru+ignition+module+outback+1998&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=qqmMSfzOOJPHtgfm69yOCw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=titlehttp://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=Subaru+ignition+module+outback+1998&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=qqmMSfzOOJPHtgfm69yOCw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title

[McDuck]

What kind of car, and which engine does it have?

Some cars have ignition modules that flake out due to moisture, or because they've cracked.

Subaru '98 Outback and I don't know beyond it being a 4-cyl.

So basically it has the non-turbo OBDII specification 2.5L boxer four cylinder in it then (aka the EJ25 in Subaru speak).

Since this is an OBDII equipped vehicle, the first thing I would recommend is to purchase/rent/borrow an OBDII code reader to see if the engine is throwing any check engine lights/diagnostic trouble shooting codes (DTCs).  This should be the easiest way to track down the problem.  Subaru specific codes can be referenced here: http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/OBD2 

Regardless, try turning the ignition key to the ON position, but don't start the car.  When you do this you should see your check engine light blink, hear your instrument cluster beep/chime, etc, and you should be able to hear the sound of the electric fuel pump priming. 

If you DON'T hear the latter, then turn the ignition off and check for blown/bad fuel pump fuses and/or relays.  Fuses you can pull and visually inspect to see if they're blown.  Relays you can try tapping on.  If bad, replace and try starting the vehicle.  If good, then the problem is probably a dead/dying fuel pump.  This can be verified by disconnecting the fuel line to the fuel rail and BRIEFLY turning the ignition to the on position to determine if adequate fuel is reaching the fuel rail, eye protection is recommended.     

If you DO hear the latter, then I recommend removing the battery to have it tested for bad cells/charge/charging efficiency, replacing the fuel filter, inspecting and replacing spark plugs and subsequent suspect ignition components (coil(s), ignitor(s), distributor, rotor), checking for adequate cylinder compression and leak down, etc etc etc.  A Haynes/Chiltons/Subaru repair manual can be a lot of help in this area. 

Hope this helps. 
 

[41mag]

What kind of car, and which engine does it have?

Some cars have ignition modules that flake out due to moisture, or because they've cracked.

Subaru '98 Outback and I don't know beyond it being a 4-cyl.

So basically it has the non-turbo OBDII specification 2.5L boxer four cylinder in it then (aka the EJ25 in Subaru speak).

Since this is an OBDII equipped vehicle, the first thing I would recommend is to purchase/rent/borrow an OBDII code reader to see if the engine is throwing any check engine lights/diagnostic trouble shooting codes (DTCs).  This should be the easiest way to track down the problem.  Subaru specific codes can be referenced here: http://wiki.nasioc.com/wiki/OBD2 

Most of the auto part chains will read the engine code for you for free.  If you can get the codes read, post them here and maybe someone can be of more help.

[John Edward Mercier]

Ian... are you using HEET on every tank?
It might sound weird, but if you get a bad dose of water laden gasoline... you might have more than just a little condensation.

[cynthia]

How long have you had the battery, and would it start a few weeks ago when it got 20 below? You know it's the battery if you continually crank it, and then, it won't crank anymore.   Will(Buchanan) has a Subaru similar to  yours(maybe a '95), so I would send him over an email. It's possible he has had something similar happen to his.

[leetninja]

potentially a crank sensor

[Pat McCotter]

potentially a crank sensor

Lloyd is a curmudgeon, not a crank.

[Lloyd Danforth]

I resemble that!

[David]

My car did that a few times several years ago.  I never actually had it replaced.  It sounded weird when he said it, but my father told me that starter moters will sometimes have a 'dead' spot in them, and if you rock the car back and forth a bit then try to restart it it may do the trick. 

[Russell Kanning]

but didn't he say it turns over?

[Lloyd Danforth]

My car did that a few times several years ago.  I never actually had it replaced.  It sounded weird when he said it, but my father told me that starter moters will sometimes have a 'dead' spot in them, and if you rock the car back and forth a bit then try to restart it it may do the trick. 

There are teeth along the outer diameter of the flywheel in the back of the engine.  The starter engages these teeth to spin the engine. When the engine is turned off, its momentum reduces to the point that it can't overcome compression and stops. Due to this the same area of teeth on the flywheel often end up getting hammered by the starter gear engaging and wears in that area.  Rocking the car or rolling it with the clutch in turns the engine and brings in teeth with less wear.  If you have this problem, you can park on a slope and roll the car and engage the clutch to move out of the worn gear area.

[Pat McCotter]

My car did that a few times several years ago.  I never actually had it replaced.  It sounded weird when he said it, but my father told me that starter moters will sometimes have a 'dead' spot in them, and if you rock the car back and forth a bit then try to restart it it may do the trick. 

There are teeth along the outer diameter of the flywheel in the back of the engine.  The starter engages these teeth to spin the engine. When the engine is turned off, its momentum reduces to the point that it can't overcome compression and stops. Due to this the same area of teeth on the flywheel often end up getting hammered by the starter gear engaging and wears in that area.  Rocking the car or rolling it with the clutch in turns the engine and brings in teeth with less wear.  If you have this problem, you can park on a slope and roll the car and engage the clutch to move out of the worn gear area.

But the symptom of a worn spot on the flywheel would be spinning of the starter motor without the engine turning over.

Clicking when you turn the key is a battery charging problem. Get a jump to see if the car will start.

Engine turning over without starting is a fuel or spark problem.

Engine starting then immediately shutting off is a vacuum problem.

[KBCraig]

Engine starting then immediately shutting off is a vacuum problem.

That can also indicate a loose mass airflow sensor in the intake (it's the honeycomb-looking thing between the air filter and the intake manifold). I've had a couple of vehicles (both from GM), where every time I changed the air filter, it would pull the rubber boot slightly loose from the manifold, allowing air to leak in behind the MAF. It would start fine, idle fast for a few seconds, then lope and quit.

[Roycerson]

Intermittent electrical problems are the worst to diagnose because they have to stay broken to troubleshoot them.  All a layman can really do is start replacing parts til you get lucky.

If you had a flat spot on the flywheel you would know.  It does not sound like the engine turning over.  It sounds either like an electric motor (starter) spinning w/o any resistance, or like metal teeth grinding together (very unpleasant sound).

[grasshopper]

  On any car that has aluminum matingf to steel, you'll sometimes get corrosion or eltrolisis corrosion where it mater, the starter and block.
To remidy this, take out the bolts 1 at a time, clean them and reseat them, or just drop the starter and wirebrush the areas as well as the bolts.
Most starting problems are ground related as the above problem is.
These problems can be solved by cleaning ALL of the contact points, for instance, wires that are bolted onto a part.  Clean every surface, washers and all the contacts ad clean them with starting fluid (ether).
  if this problem presists, drop the starter, take the 2 or 3 screws out that hold the cylinoid cover on and take this apart and clean the copper contact that goes into the starter proper.
  All this should refirb your whole system, like new.
  Pay attention to the wires that go from your battery to the switch and then to the starter. If any of these pieces are green, clean!!!!!