"Check Engine" light on?

[jaqeboy]

If your "check engine" light has come on and you're dreading a trip to the shop to see what the problem is, because it might cost you a jillion bux before you can get out of there alive....

I have acquired an OBD2 (on-board diagnostics, version 2) code reader that can read what the engine control computer is trying to tell you. This way, I can advise you if you're OK to keep driving it a little longer, or whether you really should get it fixed soon. I can do minor repairs for you at your place or mine and save you a lot of money that way. Major repairs like an engine or transmission change I'm not quite ready for.

Call Jack at 233-1058 (24-7) and I can swing by and check it for you (a generous donation for gas [since they charge a generous amount for it] and time would be appreciated).

[Puke]

Most of the time the check engine light is for emissions related parts. That's the case for my Ford anyway.
I think most cars don't have sensors on the mechanical components.

[jaqeboy]

You'd be surprised - I'm working on a car with an (automatic) transmission problem and the codes for just "shift solenoid A" can show up to 5 different error conditions for it!

Here's a list of codes that are generic to all cars P0010 to P9874 (powertrain codes) in my book, then there are additional codes that can be specific to the make or model of car, for example, this list for Fords: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/

Yeah, though, I hear ya on the emissions one. I have another car that keeps lighting the check engine light and it's a 0420!

That turns out to be "catalyst system efficiency below threshold", so either the cat converter or one of the O2 sensors is going. Cool to be able to read the code and find out, though.

[kola]

as an ex mechanic those "check engine" lights are often scheduled to appear on a timer/milage basis to indicate to take your car for a check-up and/or oil change etc.,,and often appear when nothing is wrong with your car.

If a mechanic does not find any problems the  light is easily reset.

IMO they are a scam to make you take your car in. Yes there are times when something serious is going on but if the car is running fine those check engine lights are bogus. it puts the owner in a jam as to ignore it ot take the car in. It is very easy for a repairman to sell an owner 400 bucks worth of work when all he has to do is reset the light.

You might want to read an owners manual and see if your car has some type of timer that makes the light come on at specific intervals.

Kola

[John Edward Mercier]

I've had certified mechanics tell me unless its flashing not to worry.

[Raineyrocks]

One time my "check engine" idiot light came on and it was just because I didn't shut the gas cap all of the way.   I still want my '77 Chevy Nova!

[jaqeboy]

I've had certified mechanics tell me unless its flashing not to worry.

Yeah, I understand that if it's flashing, that means "pull over - stop driving it."

[jaqeboy]

I checked a friend's Lexus today that had the "MIL" on (Malfunction Indicator Light = official name for the "Check Engine" light).

It showed a DTC = P0401 code -- P=Power Train; 0=Generic Code; 4=Auxilliary Emission Control System; 01=final detail that points to "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected" when I plugged the reader into the DLC.

(DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code; DLC = Data Link Connector)

Just what the world needs is more TLA's to befuddle the unknowing.






TLA = Three Letter Acronym 

[jaqeboy]

One time my "check engine" idiot light came on and it was just because I didn't shut the gas cap all of the way.   I still want my '77 Chevy Nova!

Lady, It looks like you got a P0624 goin' on - This could be serious. I'm gonna have to go back and tighten up your gas cap!

I could get into a Nova like that, too.

[Beth221]

If your "check engine" light has come on and you're dreading a trip to the shop to see what the problem is, because it might cost you a jillion bux before you can get out of there alive....

I have acquired an OBD2 (on-board diagnostics, version 2) code reader that can read what the engine control computer is trying to tell you. This way, I can advise you if you're OK to keep driving it a little longer, or whether you really should get it fixed soon. I can do minor repairs for you at your place or mine and save you a lot of money that way. Major repairs like an engine or transmission change I'm not quite ready for.

Call Jack at 233-1058 (24-7) and I can swing by and check it for you (a generous donation for gas [since they charge a generous amount for it] and time would be appreciated).

YOU ROCK.  My father has one, and I dont want to drive to another state to use his for free! LOL

[Lloyd Danforth]

I checked a friend's Lexus today that had the "MIL" on (Malfunction Indicator Light = official name for the "Check Engine" light).

It showed a DTC = P0401 code -- P=Power Train; 0=Generic Code; 4=Auxilliary Emission Control System; 01=final detail that points to "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected" when I plugged the reader into the DLC.

(DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code; DLC = Data Link Connector)

Just what the world needs is more TLA's to befuddle the unknowing.






TLA = Three Letter Acronym 

I say we sic the IAP on these folks!




IAP= International Acronym Police

[Lloyd Danforth]

One time my "check engine" idiot light came on and it was just because I didn't shut the gas cap all of the way.   I still want my '77 Chevy Nova!

I agree!  Although I worked for a couple of years as an auto mechanic, the last car I completely understood was my 1960 Chevy, with it's one wire harness and one vacuum hose

[Free libertarian]

  Check and change oil regularly...check radiator coolant level...monitor temperature gauges, any leaks?...listen to car...any funny smells (burning or leaking coolant or oil on exhaust manifold?) if car has a check engine light on...lift hood, engine still there?...okay you checked...keep driving.

 Second thought...probably a better idea is for the people who are not mechanically inclined to ignore the advice above and talk to somebody who is or better yet pick up a very basic book on how cars operate. I sometimes forget that not everybody skinned their knuckles back in the glory days of $100 cars, eight tracks and bondo.

 With certain inspection stations the check engine light being on may prevent you getting
a sticker...I think it has to do with the model year, emissions stuff and job security etc.

My philosphy on cars is to buy an inexpensive older one, with relatively low miles .  If you have money to burn, buy something new that will impress yourself and enhance your image...maybe you'll even get laid....one thing is certain...you will certainly get fucked on the dollar side when you go to sell or trade it in...or when you bring it somewhere because the check engine light is on.
Besides the smell of dog hair, stale beer and spilled coffee with a hint of old socks is far cheaper than the new car smell.          

[freedominnh]

Chevy Novas that vintage still appear from time to time on Craigslist for as little as $1500--2 grand.  Twice in past six months.  One was in Goffstown.  I'll let you know next time I see one Rainey.

[Beth221]

anyone know how to get that nice mousey smell out of a pickup?

anyone want to work on my truck?  I have the parts for a lug nut, and stem (?) that is missing from the tire.  I dont know how to reattach it back on.

PM me, if someone is looking for a mechanic job, for a pinky-orangey '88 F150 aka the 100 dollar pick up.